2017葡萄牙双城之旅.Torre dos Clérigos。
幕后黑手 发布于 2017-02-24
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买了千层培根肉卷之后,旅人们务必继续往上坡前进,眼前有一座高耸塔尖,那是波尔图市区知名景点:教士塔(Clérigos Tower)。
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充满巴洛克风格的教士塔并非独立存在的建筑物,其后方的教士教堂(Igreja dos Clérigos)才是这整栋建筑的主体,教士教堂于1750年先行竣工,之后教士塔才开始兴建并于1763年完工,一般旅人都只注意到高耸的塔楼,对于教堂不太关注,那是可惜的错误,因为真正让人惊豔的部份不在塔楼顶端的视野,而是教堂内部的灿烂。
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不过,既然游客直觉式的关注都落在高塔,当然是得爬上去看看的,只要挑战过三一四阶的阶梯。
喔、虽然官方阶梯数为两百四十阶,但我一阶阶数过却是三百一十四阶阶,或许我边数边昏头?
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对了,入内参观的费用是一个人4欧。其实不贵,难怪是波尔图热门景点。
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我们在波尔图的这些天路过教士塔几次,也挑了个即将日落的好天气登上塔尖看看这座城市与杜罗河对岸的加亚新城,后来我才知道,这座教堂与纪念塔之前并未完全开放,而是这两年才完整地对外开放,我们造访波尔图的时间算是掐得巧妙。
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教士塔的阶梯空间愈往上就愈小,到最后可能体型稍壮的人会无法上去,更别说碰到上下交会的状况,如果不是哪边让一下,恐怕会卡在楼梯回旋的空间动弹不得,况且阶梯窄小,上下楼要格外小心。
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但即便如此,这座高塔仍吸引了许多游客到此一游,即便如此,韩国人还是多之又多。XD
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终于登顶,不过,第一个揪住我目光的却是塔顶的世界高塔简介,其中有台北一零一,但国名却标示「China」,若非我手中没有修正带,不然我会直接涂掉改成「Taiwan」。
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撇开小插曲,教士塔顶确实让整座波尔图尽入眼帘,这是最接近市区且最容易攀登的高处,三百六十度的环绕实在吸睛,尤其傍晚天色正呈现一天之中最魔幻的时刻,那会让人忍不住连续按快门,而且你会发现波尔图是多么海鸥的城市,即便在这么高的地方,快门随便一按还是会拍到海鸥不客气地入镜,在这里要习惯眼前随时会出现不速之客,甚至一个不小心会跟你迎面撞上。
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我想海鸥们早就习惯了,不适应的只有陌生的旅人们。
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在顶楼观景台上逗留许久,终于等到完全不晓得挡到其他人的某国游客三女挪开位置,拍了想拍的角度、看到想看的夜色,然后下楼。挂在塔上的大钟默默等待众人离开,晚上七点,它才可以休息。
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其实塔内各层室内展示空间还有不少关于这座教堂与纪念塔的简介,有兴趣(且看得懂)的人可以仔细瞧瞧。
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我们回到一楼接待处,发现有个设有闸门的通道似乎还有东西可以看,询问接待人员后确认那是教堂入口,于是趁打烊前的最后半小时赶紧冲入教堂看看。不看还好,这一看,我们都傻住了。
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教士教堂内部的装饰及气势非凡,有意思的是,这儿可以直接上到环绕教堂的二楼位置,也是三百六十度观看教堂内部,还有几个展间展出耶稣相关的器物,无论是否具有相关信仰,在这里都能看见历史留下的足迹,那是一种怀想、更是一种兴奋,关于旅行。
大夥儿瞧瞧吧。
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看完了教士教堂与教士塔,得要说说旁边的知名小吃:「葡萄牙炸马介休鱼球」(Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau)。
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炸马介休鱼球是波尔图知名小吃,之前在里贝拉码头的餐厅也吃过,但那是非常基本的款式,在这儿份量大多了、更扎实多了,还能选择包了起司的,一咬下去起司立刻流出来,虽然很烫却烫得过瘾,我们连续两晚都到这里买颗炸马介休鱼球吃吃,解馋,更是愉快的休閒。
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来到波尔图的旅人可别错过这款小吃,3.5欧一颗(起司款),是有点小贵,不过值得品嚐。
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还有,隔壁就是葡萄牙知名的鱼罐头专卖店「欧利安托」(Casa Oriental),我们本来想要买一堆罐头回台送礼,后来想想罐头虽小可是累积起来重量不轻,加上送人罐头好像怪怪的,作罢。
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不过我们随意买了一罐回民宿嚐嚐,味道……果然输海底鸡啊!!(大误XDD)
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